So here’s the official script – we’re living in a brave new era when we’re wearing less makeup, embracing real skin, and letting our inner glow shine through. In theory, it’s empowering to celebrate our authentic beauty, but let’s be honest – even the best ‘true’ story can benefit from a little editing.
Which is exactly why there’s a boom in products to rewrite your skin’s future, led by clever, ‘biohacking’ creams, serums and tech which take what your skin does naturally and make it work better. And yes, they make it look better too, even when you’re not wearing a scrap of makeup.
What is biohacking?
‘Biohacking is all about harnessing and restoring your cells’ natural ability to regenerate,’ explains dermatologist Dr Emma Wedgeworth. ‘We still haven't found anything that's better than the way that our own body repairs damage and produces collagen at its youthful peak. So it’s exciting to see skincare science being used to ‘reset’ skin so it acts more like it used to.’
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If this all sounds like ‘anti-ageing’ by another name, you’d be both wrong and right. ‘Biohacking goes beyond vanity,’ says Dr Sophie Shotter, British College of Aesthetic Medicine president. ‘We now know that aged, wrinkled skin releases inflammatory mediators into the bloodstream, which directly affect heart and brain health. Addressing skin ageing through biohacking isn’t just about aesthetics, it’s about improving your system as a whole.’
Here are the smart new ways to give your skin a fresh start, so you can put your best (bare) face forward…
Super-peptides
Peptides are messenger molecules which work within the dermis, telling our cells to produce more collagen and elastin – the key to plumper, smoother, fresher skin.
There’s a myriad of peptides in skincare, so look for data-backed products, such as No7 Future Renew Damage Reverse Night Serum. This formula has been proven to ‘reboot’ repair genes which are damaged by long-term UV exposure and can no longer repair skin at peak strength overnight: ‘It strengthens and resynchronises their circadian rhythms, so they’re working together again at night,’‘ says Dr Wedgeworth. 100% of testers saw lab-measured reversal of skin damage, meaning firmer skin, brighter tone and smoothed-out lines.
Other smart peptide picks include L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser Tri-Peptides Serum, which saw trial results in just two weeks for lines, skin tone, firmness and radiance. A new name to note is InnBeauty Project and its Extreme Cream Refillable Moisturizer, which boasts a 100% clinical hit rate for boosting firmness. Or for peptides focused on tackling tired circles, try Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme from Estee Lauder, a brand collaborating on skin longevity research with Stanford.
Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme
New-gen retinoids
Retinoids such as retinol and retinal are proven to flip on the right genes to refresh skin, says Dr Wedgeworth. ‘Retinoids really switch on our fibroblasts to help produce more collagen.’ While their wrinkle-smothing effects are similar to peptides, retinoids work via different pathways so the two pair perfectly for overnight skin rejuvenation.
The latest retinoids are designed to be effective while also minimising the risk of skin aggravation (i.e. not what you need for naked-skin confidence.) GH is impressed by Beauty Pie’s Youthbomb Extreme Retinal Triple Renewal Serum, created by world-leading dermatologist Dr Mamina Turegano to be the closest you can get to prescription strength, all while being well tolerated by skin.
Beauty Pie Extreme Retinal Triple Renewal Serum - 5% Power Complex of Retinoid + Retinal + Bio-Bakuchiol
The formula combines two, super-potent ‘better-than-retinol’ retinoids, which have been cushioned for comfort by ceramides. Trials show better firmness and more even skin tone in two weeks, and it gets a big thumbs up from GH beauty director Lynne who’s testing it: ‘All gain, no pain!’
Find our full list of GHI-approved best retinols and retinoids here.
NAD+ boosters
There’s huge buzz about the ‘longevity molecule’ NAD+, which unlocks DNA repair for younger-looking skin, but expert opinion differs on how best to boost your levels. ‘I’m not a fan of trendy IV infusions, I don’t see evidence that they transport NAD+ into skin cells where it’s actually needed to work,’ says Dr Shotter.
‘Instead, I recommend using precursors which boost NAD+ production, like niacinamide.’ She likes Murad Retinal Resculpt Overnight Cream, which combines the aforementioned benefits of retinal with an NAD+ boosting blend of niacinamide and sunflower sprout.
Another exciting new arrival is Medik8's Advanced Pro-Collagen+ Peptide Cream which is proven to increase collagen production by 45% in seven days. The formula combines a host of biohacking goodies, mixing peptides with an NAD longevity booster and a trademarked ‘growth factor MiniProtein’ which enhances collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid levels – over time expect to see a more lifted look to facial contours.
Exosomes
Think of exosomes as microscopic ‘messenger bubbles’ telling neighbouring cells to pull together and work as a team. Made up of proteins, fats and genetic instructions, they’re dispatched by cells to coordinate skin repair and regeneration.
As well as being popular in aesthetic treatments, you'll often find exosomes being used in skincare to supercharge a biohacking cocktail formula. A fresh GH favourite is Medik8 C-Tetra Advanced, which goes beyond your typical vitamin C (in itself an excellent ‘biohacking’ ingredient, known for brightening skin and rebuilding collagen) This serum contains a next-gen form of vit C with plant-sourced exosomes for a speedy brightening effect that’s made it our beauty director’s current daily antioxidant must-have.
Epigenetics
Epigenetics is a blanket term for the science of switching on youth genes, so skin stops acting - and looking - its age. It’s not restricted to one specific ingredient, but the concept has inspired a new active called Epicelline, which has been 20 years in the making and has been shown to jumpstart ageing skin cells in just two weeks.
Developed by R&D giant Beiersdorf, you’ll find Epicelline in Nivea Cellular Epigenetics Age Rewind Face Serum and Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler Epigenetic Serum. Both have two famous faces swearing by the results: Cheryl credits Nivea’s for bringing back ‘that youthful, radiant glow’ to her complexion, while Rachel Stevens posed for unfiltered close-ups to show the impact Eucerin’s serum has had on her skin tone and lines.
The ‘new’ hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is well known for flooding skin with moisture, but Lancôme promises that its latest longevity breakthrough goes far beyond that. Its best-selling Génifique serum has been upgraded with the addition of ultra-hydrating Beta-Glucan-CM, which has also been shown to accelerate skin’s natural repair rate - with clinical damage-mopping results seen in a week. The biohacking benefits are enhanced by activating a separate ‘repair switch’, Nrf2, which protects cells from UV damage, reduces inflammation and shores up skin barrier function.
Lancome Genifique Ultimate Serum
Lanc me G nifique Ultimate Serum 30ml
Light therapy
Biohacking skin boosting extends into tech as well. There’s a mind-boggling array of DIY gadgets claiming to turn on your skin glow, but LED is the tech namechecked most by experts. It uses therapeutic light wavelengths such as red for stimulating collagen and blue for targeting blemishes, adding up to a visible improvement to skin tone and smoothness.
The GHI’s top-rated LED mask is Shark CryoGlow, which scored an impressive 4/5 in our lab for its impact on skin texture, fine lines and both brown and red spots. Added cooling pads had a universal hit rate for deflating puffy undereyes. Be aware that you'll need to commit to regular use to get best results from any LED device. The CryoGlow only takes six minutes a day, which doubtless helped our testers reap those biohacking rewards.
