You may have noticed that injectable fillers have been facing a bit of a backlash lately. The ‘pillow face’ look caused by badly-done work has long been a problem, and is hopefully one we'll see less of when new government regulations come into place. However, some recent concerns have also been raised over MRI imagery showing that hyaluronic acid fillers can potentially last longer than was previously realised.
To be clear, I’m not somebody who is hating on fillers. I’ve had volumising treatments done by experts I trust, such as Dr Sophie Shotter, and find a tiny, occasional tweak in the mid-face is excellent for a subtle cheek lifting effect that also softens nose to mouth lines. I fully intend to continue.
However, it’s only one tool in the kit, it’s only as good as the person administering it (please, please do your research), and as aesthetics continue to evolve, I see fillers being increasingly complemented by options to tighten skin. Because there’s only so much you can re-inflate a sagging face before it looks overstuffed.
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So, yes, I can fully understand why there’s a growing hesitancy over fillers, and why people are looking for alternatives. And it’s no surprise that beauty brands are keen to (excuse the pun) fill the gap and our skin as well. Especially when facial volume loss is higher on the beauty agenda than ever, thanks to the sagging often seen by those taking weight loss medications.
The latest launch in this area is Elizabeth Arden’s HA + Peptides Ceramide Capsules Serum, which the brand is boldly calling a ‘filler in a capsule’. That big-talking claim is down to a new formula, using what Arden calls a ‘size shifting hyaluronic acid’ that’s 500 times tinier than traditional HA.
Break open the capsule, and you’ll get a shrunken down form of HA which allows it to dive deeper into the skin and then – pow! – expand and plump for instant effects. Think of it as a ship in a bottle, basically. In trials, 100% of testers saw instantly plumped skin.
Each capsule also delivers a complex of peptides designed to support the body’s own production of hyaluronic acid and collagen over time, promising better hydrated, naturally plumped skin from within, long term.
I’ve been testing it myself for the past week, and while I can’t comment on long term benefits, I can definitely see the instant effects. While the volume increase isn’t remotely comparable to an injection of HA (let’s be realistic, here), fine lines around the eyes and nose do look smoothed out. It makes a great canvas for makeup application as well.
It’s also got the approval of dermatologist Dr Mary Sommerlad, part of Arden’s Dermatology Collective, who sees it as very much in line with our current skin needs and concerns.
‘In my experience, people are generally moving away from injectable fillers due to concerns around long term safety, potential complications, and the desire to have an authentic appearance to the skin,’ she tells GH. ‘Yet there’s an increasing interest in volume restoring and plumping skincare especially with the advent of GLP-1 agonists and the rapid weight loss they induce.’
The combination of instantly ‘size shifting HA’ and collagen-boosting peptides is one she thinks is well worth adding to an anti-ageing regime. ‘It leaves skin appearing naturally volumised while feeling bouncy and well-nourished within minutes,’ she says.
Can it replace my filler injections? No, of course not. But it’s definitely something I’ll be using to complement them, and as a smart instant boost.