Jennifer Aniston is looking undeniably phenomenal for any age, let alone 55. So when the Friends actress revealed that she’d had a “salmon sperm facial”, the beauty industry was immediately reeled in. Salmon what? Did we hear that right? How? Why?!
As it happens, the actress had a similar reaction to the rest of us when the treatment was first recommended by her aesthetician: “First of all, I said, ‘Are you serious? How do you get salmon’s sperm?’” (A good question, and we’ll get to that shortly.)
The salmon sperm facial has become the most talked-about topic in aesthetics ever since, and Jennifer was recently grilled further about her fishy tweakment on Jimmy Kimmel Live!. Taking part in the TV host’s ‘true or false’ quiz, she confirmed she’d tried it, but admitted she’d been “unclear” about the salmon sperm element.
What to read next
“I just took the woman’s word that that’s what it was, and I was like, ‘Sure!’. [It’s] supposed to be little, tiny microneedling that they do, [which is to] push in the salmon sperm,” she said, adding with a laugh: “Don’t I have beautiful salmon skin?”
She certainly does, but what’s it really like to have a salmon sperm facial and does it even work? To find out, I was invited to visit Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, who’s both a GP and one of the UK’s leading aesthetics experts.
What’s the salmon sperm facial like?
The first thing I’d say is this: rethink your expectations of a ‘facial’. If you’re expecting luxurious unguents and a nice doze, the salmon sperm iteration will come as a shock. Involving needles plus a few squeamish winces, you most certainly won’t be – ahem – sleeping with the fishes.
The salmon sperm facial uses polynucleotides, which are the basic building blocks of DNA and therefore an obvious option for skin rejuvenation. “We use polynucleotides derived from salmon sperm cells because they provide a close match for human DNA,” explains Dr Ahmed.
And to come back to Jen’s initial question, these cells are extracted from salmon gonads, an unused byproduct of the food industry. (So no, there’s nothing even faintly sexual about any of this – and you can kindly stop with any ‘Only Fins’ quips.)
The sperm-derived polynucleotides are then highly purified and turned into an injectable product, explains Dr Ahmed, who’s performing my treatment with a brand called Ameela. Once injected into skin, this acts as what’s known as a bio-stimulator, triggering the synthesis of fresh collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. “There’s an actual biological improvement in the skin quality,” he tells me.
That’s fantastic news, because today we’re tackling my under-eye area, which is sinking fast under the weight of midlife insomnia. Ameela can be used all over the face, too, but the brand’s specialised eye formula is proving especially popular as a brightening fix.
“Ameela Eyes doesn’t add volume in the same way as tear trough filler, but it does help with the under-eye hollowness, because the skin is better hydrated and plumper, and there’s more collagen,” Dr Ahmed says. “It also helps with skin laxity and dark under-eye pigmentation.” For best results, most patients need an initial course of two or three treatments, spaced a month or so apart.
It can be used in a couple of ways, which determines the expected ouch. If I was having lots of little mesotherapy-style micro-doses for pigmentation (which sounds like the 'microneedling' Jennifer Aniston mentions), Dr Ahmed would recommend numbing cream, but because he’s “just” treating my sleepy hollows via a single cannula injection each side at my orbital bone, he assures me I won’t need any pain relief. “One sharp scratch, then it’s done in a few seconds.”
He’s as good as his word, but I still go a bit clammy, and the expression on the face of the person filming my treatment makes me suspect this isn’t for the faint-hearted. Sure enough, when I review the footage and see the needle moving beneath my delicate under-eye skin, I feel queasy, too.
Thankfully, though, that’s the worst of it. Afterwards, all I see is two pinpricks on my face, plus some minor under-eye puffiness, which deflates over the next 24 hours, leaving me back to square one. It’s what I’ve been told to expect, but it’s a little disappointing all the same.
But then, around 10 days later, I realise my under-eyes are looking a bit brighter, plumper and smoother. I need less concealer, and what I do wear doesn’t crease as much. I feel like me on a good day, but without having a good night’s sleep first.
By the time I return for my second treatment, I’m more than happy to take a deep breath and forget about the ick factor. A month on, the second Ameela injection has kicked in and I’m impressed. Yes, the results are subtle, but they send out a message of being well-rested and relaxed.
I’m now planning to go back for a third session on my eyes and get the full fish-face treatment while I’m at it. That way, I should reach peak Ameela just in time for party season, and hopefully nobody will notice if I’m burning the Christmas candle at both ends.
There’s only one ‘minor’ matter to raise: the cost. At around £450 per treatment, a fish facial is most definitely going to leave your bank balance battered…
Salmon sperm facial Q&A
All the big questions answered by Dr Ahmed
How can salmon sperm be okay to inject into my skin?
Ameela is derived from salmon DNA, but it’s fully purified of hormones and proteins before being injected.
What does it do?
It physically rejuvenates the skin. It helps with production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, plus it hydrates the skin. It also reduces the damage that free radicals cause to the skin and it helps with wound healing. We use it for skin quality across the whole face.
What effect does it have on eyes?
It’s a very natural and quite subtle effect, but it does help with under-eye hollowness because the skin is better hydrated and plumper, and there’s more collagen. It’s versatile – it can also be used for pigmentation and on the upper eyelids for skin laxity. I’ve treated everyone from the age of 18 up to 75.
Will it take the place of tear trough fillers?
No. For people with more hollowing, there will always be a place for tear trough filler, because Ameela doesn’t add that much volume. The two can complement each other. Ameela is also a good option to offer patients who get swelling around their eyes – for instance, from lymphatic drainage issues – who can’t have fillers. It can be a really nice option to improve the skin quality without causing puffiness.
Does it hurt?
Treating under-eye hollows with a single entry point and a cannula feels like a quick sharp scratch and doesn’t typically need any pain relief. If you’re having lots of little mesotherapy-style injections, discomfort is a bit of a concern. Unlike filler, the product itself doesn’t have lidocaine in it, because we want to get as many actives into the syringe. But it’s quite a quick treatment, so, generally, it’s bearable for patients if we apply prescription numbing cream beforehand.
Any risks to be aware of?
There’s no downtime as such, but you can get a little bit of swelling for a couple of days after. I haven’t experienced any issues with sensitivities. For patients on anticoagulants, I’d probably use a cannula and not the multi-injection mesotherapy technique. But, generally, the treatment is very well tolerated, and there haven’t been any major complications reported after Ameela. It’s definitely a lot safer than filler.
What’s the maintenance?
You see the full results a month after finishing your course of two or three, then you generally get a top-up every six to 12 months.
* Ameela Eyes is available nationwide, approx £450 per treatment. As with all aesthetic treatments, you should only be treated by a qualified, experienced and insured practitioner who specialises in aesthetics. For information on safety in aesthetics, visit The British College of Aesthetic Medicine (BCAM)
